For the past few years a subway system has been under construction here in Chengdu. It is projected to be completed by 2010 but this overwhelmingly crowded city is more than ready for it now.
With the cold, damp winter upon us, it seems like more people are leaving their bike locked up and their walking shoes off in favor of Chengdu's woefully insufficient public transportation. The result is that it's nearly impossible to find a taxi from about 5-7 pm, the buses are packed like sardine cans, and traffic moves at a sloth's pace.
Today I took the 92, a double-decker bus, right in the middle of the rush hour commute. It was not the romantic, London-style bus you may be imagining. The bus is old and decripid, spews fumes, and feels like it's ready to break down at any second. On both levels there is not nearly enough headroom to stand up straight for a person any taller than 5'7".
The protracted, fetid, agonizing ride led to a heated confrontation between some passengers; two couples. After one lady stepped on the shoe of another a verbal altercation ensued. After a few swears in the local Sichuan language were exchanged, everything seemed to settle down. A few minutes passed and then the women were at it again, this time more vehement. Suddenly punches were thrown, people were shoved, hair was pulled, and the bus just kept on plodding along. Finally a few passengers broke up the fight and formed a human barricade between the two couples.
While I'm sure I will miss the Pay-Per-View quality bouts right in front of me, I think I'm ready for this subway system. I really enjoyed the smooth metros of Shenzhen, Shanghai, Beijing, and Hong Kong, and I think it's exactly what this city of eleven million spicy food-eating, rice wine-drinking, slightly peevish inhabitants needs.
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